The common cold.

Oh yes, it happens. Even in Africa. The first minute you have a fever, the next minute you are hyperventilating because you think you are going to die. It’s quite ridiculous, but it happens. Cornellie told me “You don’t wonder about malaria, you know.” In other words, stop whining, and go get tested - it takes 5 minutes. Lucky for me, as I planned to go to the doctor today, I woke up feeling refreshed and without fever. Today I do not have malaria. Praise the good Lord above.

I am feeling very weak, but I can hold my own. I still haven’t managed to get my appetite since I have been here. Please note, I am not complaining. In any other circumstances this would seem pleasing, but when you are working on a MAJOR budget and would rather go on safari than buy new clothes, it can become quite a problem. Oh well…when my pants actually fall off of me – and there is photographic proof – maybe Mum will feel sorry for me!

So if you didn’t catch that, no, I don’t have malaria. I just had a really bad cold. The more colds I get in Africa, the more level I feel. It’s a notch on my belt.

The French are funny. I met Romain on couchsurf.org and ended up meeting him and a friend for a whirlwind kind of night! They took me to all the hot spots for ex-pats and just for some good dancing. I had a ball. A ball until…my phone and flashlight were stolen!! It is amazing how fast things happen. We were literally about to leave, I spun around and saw my wallet on the ground. I thought it was odd, but didn’t think much about it. When I got back home I searched for my phone and it was clearly gone. I then checked out my wallet to find no money. Lucky for me I NEVER take my passport, cash card, or loads of cash out. It was a good day for me.

So WEEE, for yet ANOTHER cute little African phone. They really aren’t that cute now. Turns out Aleksi and Jens both had theirs stolen in ZNZ this weekend as well. I don’t feel as silly. No matter, I still had to spend 1/3 of my salary on this stupid little phone. It really puts things into perspective. New jeans or food? I think there is an obvious answer here.

Arusha is quiet. I am still awaiting the Dannish. And a miracle from Kari. I am hoping to go on the safari in the Serengeti with Bernie, Jude, and Svenja, but I may I have to wait. Pole Sana.

N

Chinese Food…in Africa…with the Finnish…and that odd English couple.

The ultimate cultural experience. My last night in Bahari Beach was filled with sea snails, duck, crab, prawns, live music, and a memorable evening with my new friends. I have had the best time meeting new people – Africans and Europeans alike. Leaving DAR was quite emotional, but it will make our reunions that much better.

I arrived in Arusha Monday night around 7:30. It was a long bus ride – 9-10 hours– which included many speed bumps and “detours” off the main roads. In the end, I can say that it was not a terrible trip and I met several nice people along the way. Half way to Arusha we made a stop for lunch and to use the toilet, but I was so nervous about the bus leaving me I ran to the toilet, grabbed a mango juice, and sat next to the bus. By the time I arrived I was light headed and in desperate need of some food. When I got off the bus I was hounded by men asking me if I needed a taxi. “Hapana Asante! Hapana Hapana!” They were persistent. One guy, who was clearly drunk, kept trying to hug me. I finally pushed him away and said “LEAVE ME ALONE!” He did, and I was proud of myself.

Lydia and Damien, local team leaders here, picked me up and whisked me away to a shop to get some water. I noticed how dark the shop was and I realized that the power must be out. Awesome. No power. No charge left in my laptop. Oh yeah, and there is no running water at the house – you must fetch it from outside. Lovely. I am hoping we can get some running water before the next big Dannish group gets here. They will arrive the first weekend in March and it couldn’t be any sooner! I am the only mzungu in the house right now, so I tend to keep to myself and do as much work as I can that doesn’t involve a computer. Juho left today for Moshi, so once he returns from climbing Mount Kilimanjaro he will stop by for a few weeks. FINALLY! A familiar face to see! Several others in DAR say they will visit as soon as they can, and I certainly hope they will soon.

Yesterday Lydia took me into Arusha to see the main attractions for volunteers and white people (mzungu). I asked her where the nearest Shop Rite was and she laughed. Typical mzungu. I know. But there is something comforting about walking up and down grocery aisles. On the way I saw several luxurious resorts, many electronic stores, the city market, McMoody (an obvious attempt to brand itself as McDonald’s), several banks and post offices, and some lovely gelati and coffee shops. This is a completely different atmosphere than the beach. Though our house is quite remote, and you have to walk for a bit, you are only one dala dala ride away from the Western World. The Masai Camp is just down the road, and there is a bar, restaurant, and showers that I think volunteers will find quite nice.

Today has been EXHAUSTING, but very rewarding. We walked to over 7 schools so that I could meet the teachers and see the kids. None of the school conditions were terrible, but several of them could definitely use some painting. We also walked to two orphanages and my heart melted. Some times your job makes you laugh, some times it makes you smile, and some times it just reminds you how big your heart really is. Now don’t ask me how we got to these places or how we got home. After the third dirt road and the second short cut, I was completely reliant on Lydia. That is very challenging for me. I hope in the next three weeks I will be seasoned enough to show the volunteers around myself.

Short Funny for the Day: Lydia and I were walking to the first school today and this little boy comes running up to me, so excited and happy! I thought to myself, I love it when the kids just want to hold your hand and give you a big hug. As he neared I was ready for the hug when all of a sudden I felt a tug on my mango juice box. Lydia and I both just laughed realizing that my juice was the target of his affection and not me.

Live the life you love. You’ve only got one.

N

the ugly truth...it's not that ugly!

Let’s be honest here. No one, including myself, thought that Tanzania would be a walk in the park. Many people asked me what my expectations were and I can never really say. All I can say is I never expected this. This week was very typical of what I would experience at home, yet somehow in Africa things to get a bit more exacerbated.

Sunday: Movie Day. And the stupid American couldn’t have picked a worse movie! Me, Nina, and Tuukka headed to the mall to see Tron. They are still giving me such a hard time about picking that movie! Oh well! At least it was air-conditioned and they had popcorn. *Sigh* Life’s little pleasures :)

Monday: I was welcomed with a pile of emails due to the fact that we had not had internet for over 10 days. I haven’t been able to really learn our new booking system, so I begin adding volunteers in it and the emails from Sandra in Germany kept on. “Nell, this is not right”, “Nell, this is already done”, “Nell, can you handle this?” I don’t even think it was noon yet. Lucky for me she is unbelievably PATIENT! Things seemed to calm down and we had a night out at Machunos to get away from the volunteer house, and all seemed good. Little did we know.

Tuesday: After a sleepless night with bits of crying here and there, I woke up – sunny-side up – bound and determined to have a great day, internet or not. Breakfast brought Nina and I a crying volunteer and a freaked out group of girls. The night before the girls had watched a movie with our projector and laptop (as we have done MANY times before), and brought the equipment to their room for safekeeping. The girls woke up to a flip flop in their door – to keep it from slamming apparently – and laptop, projector, several phones, a credit card, a hearing aid, and some other odds and ends nowhere to be found. We were all in shock. All proper homes around here have security guards so of course we have them. Unfortunately they have a way of “falling asleep” sometimes. The police here aren’t really any help, and it is doubtful that anything will be recovered. This has happened in the past, and it has actually been other volunteers stealing from each other, but this is not the case because our largest group is on safari right now. There are literally 15 of us here right now. The security guards will probably be fired, which is unfortunate because one of them is really great – and was actually the employee of the month. The irony.

I know some of you are ready to say “I told you so!” and “Watch your back!” but I want to assure you that this is just not as common as you may think. Please know that I am OVERLY cautious when I travel anywhere and I ALWAYS lock up at night. It is a rare occasion that I am ever alone and I am always observing others around me. Even after last night, I feel completely safe in my room and in our home.

Wednesday: Finally. No more drama. And would you believe it if I told you that today we have had water, power, AND internet ALL DAY LONG. This is truly unimaginable around here. I have been able to do work, answer emails, and even do some catching up on facebook. What a blessing today has been! This week I have already learned so much about myself. I have learned that it is okay to be wrong and make mistakes because tomorrow is another day. I have learned that you must follow your heart. Because at the end of the day, I am the one who has to live with the decisions I make. I have also learned that is okay to have a mundane day in Africa. I much prefer them now! And I have learned that running water and electricity is overrated. It’s the candlelit dinners with the most roaring laughter.

Not everyday will be a day at the beach, but I leave my work every afternoon feeling satisfied and content with the life I am living.

N

Just a typical day at the mall.

Just returned from a grand day at the mall!

Yay, my first ride on a dala dala! It wasn't too terrible...but traffic in town can get crazy, so you are just ready to be off the bus. I have to say that the bus ride is very similar to those I experienced at UGA...luckily it wasn't a bunch of students trying to be cool on their cell phones.

We first got dropped off in Mwenga and went the wood market. I bought two bowls and a small cat sculpture. I have to contain myself because I have not even been here a week!

We trekked in the hot hot sun to the mall. There aren't really any crosswalks so you basically have to run for your life. The mall was lovely and it had air conditioning! YAY! I had two sprites and some chips. That seems to be hitting the spot these days. Cokes are so cheap here, and diet coke is actually more expensive. They are served in glass bottles that are returned and reused to bottle more Coke. I love recycling :)

There were a few things that I was interested in purchasing, but after seeing some of the prices - I was not interested in paying $2 for a hand towel - I decided to buy some orange juice and water. I resisted the urge to buy any candy or American cereal, but it was awfully hard! I will definitely go back to the mall, maybe for a movie, or just to get some ice cream.

The store ShopRite was a grocery and had household items. It reminded me of a typical American grocery store. Another store called Game reminded me more of a Sam's or Costco. There was hardware supplies, electronics, and food and drinks.

Some of the girls went to the internet cafe, but Ann and I decided to return to the volunteer house. We got a tuk-tuk back instead of a dala dala because they are MUCH more comfortable. I took a video of some of our trip back. I will post later.

The rest of the day is history. I will load some pictures, eat dinner, and get to bed early. It still trips me out that people are getting ready for church in Georgia.

lots of love.

N

"Sunday morning I'm waking up, can't even focus on a coffee cup..." (The Chemical Brothers)

It's Sunday morning and everyone is sleeping...except me...because I have not been able to sleep past 7 AM since the first day I arrived. We are so close to the equator and the sun is up and at 'em around 6 AM every morning. We had a party last night, so many will be sleeping until lunch at least, I am sure! The party was great. Art in Tanzania has a record label called Mzuka Records, so the guys from that run Mzuka come set up the sound equipment and play all kinds of very loud music until very late at night. It is a great way for the volunteers - and myself - to meet the locals, and get more comfortable with them. If we are going to be walking around their community for the next few months, it makes sense.

Safety is, of course, always a concern BUT, there is no reason to feel unsafe around the house. I leave my laptop in an unlocked office all the time. When the locals were here we had to be careful leaving our things out, and I left everything in my room. There is no way for locals to get to the area where our rooms are, and if a local wants to attend a party a volunteer must sign them in, so it isn't as if locals are popping in and out of here at their leisure. I feel very safe here.

Yesterday I spent the entire day on Coral Island - what a treat! The Danish group and I took a 20-30 minute boat ride to the island where we were greeted with white sand and crystal blue water. We had to order lunch when we arrived because it had to caught! The day's catch was king fish grilled with a side of chips, lime, and sea salt. It was probably the freshest seafood I have ever had.

The entire day I lounged under a small bamboo hut because I did not want to burn, but occasionally ventured out to the water to cool off. Many of the group went snorkeling quite far off the shore. There are coral and small fish all around, but I had no interest in exploring - I have a fear of having a staring contest with something larger than me! The island was very quiet and there were several other white people lounging. I am sure this is on the list of many visitors.

I finally got to read my Economist and listened to American music all day on my solar-powered radio. I have heard everything from Kanye to Nickeback! I have heard a lot of early 90s hip-hop - think Living in Color/Fresh Prince - and it makes me laugh. At the party last night I talked to a guy for a long time about how the area is so influenced by Western culture. Many of the guys would rather learn to dance hip-hop over traditional African dance. That makes me very sad to think that people might be losing their culture. Don't get me wrong, I love to hear American music on the occasion, but I AM in Africa. I didn't come here to be at home...their music is quite nice!

Our return boat ride from Coral Island was nothing special until we had to get off the boat. Our driver stopped right in front of the area where the locals were fishing...and throwing fish guts. It was the first time I could have gotten sick. Some people had to walk through barefoot. It was truly disgusting! There is so much trash around, and it often smells foul. I do not understand how one gets used to it.

Saturday was PANCAKE DAY! They were so tasty! VERY similar to what we consider a pancake. I did not have any syrup, but there was some sugar and jam. I ate mine plain.

Today I will go to the mall. I would like to get some more towels, and I might do some grocery shopping. It would be nice to have some orange juice in the mornings. We have a cooler that we can put things in. Hopefully I will get to take a dala dala for the first time!

Excited for a new day!

N

This definitely isn't Cape Town...

I made the mistake of wearing a dress that showed my knees in Tegeta Market. Most people were very nice, but one woman kept staring and laughing at me. Pants and kangas it is! I bought several pieces of fabric today – I will post pictures as soon as I can. There is a tailor down the road that will make anything I want! A kanga is a traditional African skirt and they are great because you feel like a local AND you’ve got a piece of clothing that will last for several days before it is time to do laundry. I will probably get some pants made as well.

Instead of the dala dala Nina, Joseph, and I took a tuk tuk.. Everything was going great until the millions of pot holes and constant road work took over. I held on for dear life and survived! The ride back home wasn’t as dramatic, but I was ready to get home. While we were walking around the market I stepped on the back of Joseph’s sandal, so I bought him some new ones. I felt so bad! We bought him notebooks, shoes, and some socks to prepare him for school. He will get his uniform at school next week.

This afternoon has not been terribly busy. The power is still out, so there isn’t much I can do. Nina has really taken control of this large group and does it so well! I just ask questions when I can because I will be doing what she is been doing on a much smaller scale. Today she sent me some spreadsheets and has started copying me on emails so I can be a bit more informed.

Mom would be so proud! I had to get a phone while I was over here and I asked them for the cheapest one they had! It is super basic, but does what it needs to do. I am excited to have a local number.

Another thing I am super excited about is going to Zanzibar! The English group and I have been coordinating accommodations and I created a budget for everyone. YAY ME! This will be a mini-vacation because work won’t be paying for anything. The budget will make sure I conserve as much money as possible. Of course, all I have been buying these days is water, so that shouldn’t be a problem.

Afternoon...

Nina and I heard drumming from the beach and figured it was one of our volunteer projects, so we decided to head down there and see what was going on…and boy what a treat! The group - I can’t remember the name right now – performs traditional East African dancing and music. There were drums, dancers, and lots of fun was had by everyone. They are truly amazing. Some of the volunteers are going to help promote them around the city so they can get more recognition and hopefully more paying gigs. We are going to have a beach party in a few weeks where they will perform. Speaking of the beach…the Indian Ocean is beautiful! White sand and a great breeze…I am excited to get back there.

On the way home a little boy held my and Nina’s hand and we played “swing”. “One, two, three, SWING!” I use to love doing that on the way to church with my parents. The kids here love to grab you and walk with you, even just for a few seconds. Many of them love to show you their English, and some seem surprised when you shout to them, “Mambo!” They have the biggest smiles and I love to hear them laugh when I am walking places.

Waiting for dinner was excruciating! We had chips again! The ketchup here is very different, but nothing to complain about. The cats were whining so loud, so I left a little on my plate for them. It makes me miss my kitties so much :(

Because it is a Friday everyone is staying up to drink and socialize, but I am exhausted so I am headed to bed. The sun comes up so early (6 AM) every morning and it is so hot, so I try to get out of my room soon after after. Darn equator!!

Tomorrow it’s Coral Island with the Danish group! Lunch is fish and chips. You order your fish when you get there, and then they go catch it! Very excited! More about that soon.

N

Wanna get tan and lose weight? Come to Tanzania!

All I will say is that if you want a tan, want to lose weight, and want to save some money…come to Tanzania!!! It is HOT, SUNNY, and CHEAP! All you will want to do is drink water and eat fresh fruit! A pineapple only costs 1000 Tanzanian Shilling (Tsh) – that is less than $1 USD. $1 USD is the equivalent to about 1500 Tsh (that’s rounding up a bit) – 1.5 liters of water is 800 Tsh!!! Because all of my meals are included with my salary, I have spent money only on water since I have been here.

Today shouldn’t include as much walking today. Nina and I will going to Tegeta Market to take a young boy to get shoes, clothes, and other school essentials. He is being sponsored by a former team leader and we want to make sure we get all receipts. While we are there I am hoping to get some currency , a phone, and some fabric for some skirts. There is a lady down the road that will make skirts, so I am very excited to have some lighter clothes – Mom and I didn’t exactly pack for this weather – and it will be great to feel more like a local.

To get to the market we will take a dala dala. Some of you may have heard about these crazy buses. They just keep packing more and more people on them, some bring their animals, and it can be very uncomfortable (and smelly). It is not advised to take one of these at night, but during the day it is fine.

Tomorrow I am very excited because I will be escorting our large group to Coral Island! It is just a small day excursion. People will have the opportunity to sun bath, snorkel, and just lounge. My responsibility is only to pay the ferry bus and for lunch. Other than that I plan on relaxing as well!

I am off to chat with some of the volunteers before their day begins. Will be back soon!

Cheers!